High-Voltage Wiring

Attached the controller, an Alltrax Axe 4834, by bolting a couple of steel plates to existing holes in the top of the frame. For the gas tank to fit over top of it the gas cap holder had to be cut out. The gas tank does not leave a lot of room after the controller is in place, raising the question where the contactor and DC-DC converter (both yet to be bought anyways) are going to go.
Next I purchased a hammer crimper to fix the lugs to the 4 guage wire. The crimper works well for the modest $33 price tag. The insulation doesn't fit in the lug, so I'll need to use some electrical tape to clean up the small spaces where cable is exposed on a couple of them. I considered using a propane torch, but I'd already bought screw-on battery terminals so not sure what the point would have been. Besides, I don't know how to make a solder connection with wire that big - soldering small guage wire is still a stretch. I also bought some terminal covers (the 5722R's). The catalogue says they protect from shorts - and this is a good thing - but I'd bought them hoping they'd help protect the terminals from the elements when I eventually start riding. It's clear I'll need something else for that as they leave a lot of space for water to get in. I see many conversions use sport bike frames as the fairings offer protection to the batteries. I think my next project might head in that direction.
	I followed the wiring diagram on the Electric Vehicles USA site. This is just a high-voltage diagram - and the easiest thing I figured to get started with. I followed everything exactly, except the shunt and voltmeter, and the addition of 2 extra batteries. I have an E-Meter ready to go but wanted to start simple. The physical disconnect is a keyed 500 Amp cut-off. When I first wired the batteries together, connected the negative to B- on the controller, and then touched the red line to B+, I got a spark. So I turned everything off, made sure the disconnect was open (line disconnected from the controller), wired everything together solidly, and was fine. I then wired the controller to the motor, and it worked on the first go.

	Next the chain - a DID 520V. I bought a connecting link but don't have a rivet tool so just used the snap-on piece (what's that for?) for now. I understand their are quick links for some chains, i.e. a link you don't have to rivet but is sturdy enough to ride with? The chain held for a couple of short test runs in the garage. I realize this isn't part of the wiring, but with the motor turning, had to see the wheel turn too. Just have to wait for the snow to melt to take it out for a longer run.